Alison does Costa Rica

Back in the Heartland

2007-06-22T15:54:53Z

Hello readers- sadly my trip must come to an end, but the good news is that I am safely back in the USA. I arrived via the Miami airport where I was in total culture shock (even though half of the Miami airport was habla-ing Espanol). Thoughts racing through my mind included:
- (while in line at Burger King in airport). Yo quiero un... crap, how do I say Whopper Jr in Spanish? I guess I can say Pequeno for Jr. as that means small. I wonder if they use a different word for Whopper here. Wait. I am in the US..
- (while in bathroom at airport) Where is the wastebasket next to the toilet to throw away toilet paper? If I flush it is the toilet going to explode? Oh. nevermind. I am in America where we have advanced sewer systems.
Basically everything is running through my mind twice, in English and in Spanish.

Couple of closing photos and videos....!
First, me on surfboard. I wish I could tell you that I was getting on massively larger waves than this, but in reality, maybe only once or twice.

Second, me and my favorite children at la esquela.

Finally, me in action teaching.

Back in the Heartland remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Real woman of genius

2007-06-16T17:49:56Z

Given my obsession with seeing nesting turtles, I decided to take an overnight trip to Ostional Beach, about 2 hrs from my home in Samara. I regret to say that I have still not seen a nesting turtle. I did however have a very long and eventful day of travel.
After a sweaty 1.5 hr rocky bus ride where I had to stand in the aisle the whole way and hang on to the rail for dear life, I arrived in Nosara. Nosara is a pretty dumpy town where I was supposed to find a taxi to Ostional. I unfortunately learned upon arrival that the river was too high to cross in taxi. I conferred with several locals, and as usual got a variety of responses regarding the said overflowing river. Some claimed that I could walk 7K and cross the river by foot, some claimed I could take a motercycle, some claimed I could find this guy at the Supermarket with the giant truck.
At this point I was dripping with sweat and decided to just cut my losses and go to the rich American& Euro beach (aka The Hamptons) that was just 5K away. Some rip off taxi driver wanted to charge me $14 to get there, but then my knight on a white horse showed up (Canadian in air conditioned Ford Explorer) offering me a ride to the Hamptons.
He dropped me off at his Cali friend's hostel, which was a pretty hard core surfer hostel.... meaning me and 7 surfer dudes in an attic with a bunch of bunk beds. After they proceeded to prove their manliness via an impromtu pull up contest, we went to the beach where I watched them surf. After a while, I decided I wanted to go explore the town.
I walked around for about an hour, and it was starting to get dark so I figured I should get back to my hostel. Trouble is... I can't remember where the hostel is. I can't even remember the name of it. The streets are dark and windy with no people or no places of business. I tried to ask some locals where this hostal was, and the conversations went somewhat like this (I will try to translate my Spanish for you)
Me: I am lost. I to look for hostal of an American man.
Security guard at ritzy hotel: Hostal?
Me: Yes. HOSTAL. (repeating in more pronounced Spanish accent)
Guard: I do not understand.
Me: It is like cheap hotel.
Guard: What is the name of this hotel?
Me: I don't know. I forgot.
Guard: (laughing with other guard hysterically) You can stay in the hotel over there.
Me: I have things in hostal like passport and other clothes.
Guard: And you don't know the name?
Me: It is place with American surfers and is very cheap.
Guard, (Quizzical... points me to expensive hotel that I cannot afford.)
Me, totally embarrased and feeling like an absolute idiot, continue walking.
I walk around in the dark for another 30 minutes, starting to tear up, not because I am scared (I am in the middle of The Hamptons with like $500K houses all around ) but because I am totally embarrased, sweaty, and have to go to the bathroom.
Finally some girl mentions a bar that I remember was sort of by my hostal and I am able to make my way back.
The night ends up being pretty fun, I get dinner and drinks with the surfers, and then see the most brilliant starry night of my entire life.

Real woman of genius remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Snakes, Mangos, and the Cougar returns

2007-06-11T22:49:21Z

Today started off with a what I believe was a near death experience.... I was walking down the street and almost stepped on a black & green colored snake. Several people have since confirmed that this snake was poisonous. Someone told me something along the lines of that if the snake bit me, my foot would have to be cut off, but I'm not really sure that's accurate as something may have gotten lost in translation.
Next, I arrive at school to find again we only have 2 hours of classes as most are mysteriously cancelled.
Finally, I encounter some neighborhood boys that want to know if I want to come with them to pick mangos from trees. (note: I know their families, they are not sketchy.) We get in the car and have the age discussion, at which point I confirm my suspicion that they are 17 & 18 yr old high school dropouts. They are seemingly disappointed to learn that I am 30. Next, we get to the mango farm, where we sort of have to slip through a barbed wire fence to get in. (They have assured me this is all cool, by the way.) The farm was beautiful, overlooking the ocean, and I ate the most delicious mango of life. At some point a truck comes down the dirt road and we have to run & hide behind a hill. So I learn that we are breaking and entering into this farm and I am stealing mangos, at age 30.
We then proceed back to the car where they smoke and blast Cypress Hill from the car stereo, dance around and try to look cool.
Final event of the day just transpired - I walked here via the beach and encountered this guy I have met once or twice. He asks to borrow $2, which he claims he will return to me within 1 hour. I think this involves drugs and politely decline.

Snakes, Mangos, and the Cougar returns remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Attack of the surfboard

2007-06-10T18:32:02Z

Yesterday I was thinking that maybe I could quit my job and become a pro surfer, as I was getting up on all kinds of waves (allegedly, waves 4-5 ft high...according to questionable witness (questionable as he seems to be keen on finding an American girlfriend)). However today I was attacked by the board, meaning a gash on my left leg, a bruise on my right, a rash on my belly. Also, the ocean was not allowing me to stand up for some reason.
Think I need a bit of a break, which should be okay since tomorrow is Monday and school tends to actually take place early in the week (later in the week, school is often cancelled for mysterious ¨teacher meetings¨in other towns, futbol games, and rain.)
My teaching is going well and the kids seem to like me. I am somewhat a celebrity in town as everywhere I walk a little student is waving & yelling ¨Teacher, teacher!¨or Äll-ee-son.¨ This doesn´t mean they choose to listen in class or sit in their seats when I ask.

Attack of the surfboard remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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¨Teacher All-ee-son¨

2007-06-03T15:58:33Z

I love teaching the little Costa Rican kids, even though they are the most hyper children I´ve ever seen (perhaps Ritalin is not readily available in 3rd world countries). The 1st through 4th graders are fairly well behaved and listen to me some of the time (I´ve even received stickers and colored pictures from some of the girls). The 5th and 6th graders are more concerned with looking cool in front of their friends so I can´t really control them. It´s sort of like I get in front of the class and talk to myself in Spanglish while they fight, play games and yell at each other.
The younger children are lucky enough to witness my incredible vocal skills via the alphabet song and Old McDonald . We have also played Duck Duck Goose and a variation that I invented to teach more words which is Cat Cat Dog.
Fortunately, the teacher is going to be back on Monday and then I will be able to work with smaller groups in the classroom instead of having to manage all the chaos on my own.
After a 2 week hiatus I´m also back on the surfboard. Before you start picturing Blue Crush, imagine the size of waves you used to jump through when you were 8 years old in Florida.

¨Teacher All-ee-son¨ remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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My new life in Costa Rica

2007-06-03T16:39:01Z

I have moved into my homestay where I share a room, ghetto bathroom, and kitchenette with another gringa. This is where we shower. The only output is cold water.

Also note in my luxurious accomodations my roomate and I have encountered 3 of these crabs, which we swept out into the street. This is a photo of one (this was in the wild, but imagine it crawling next to your bed...)

The senora of my casa makes amazing meals, or casadas, for me very night... always consisting of rice and beans. Derivation of name (casada = married) is a meal that a woman cooks for her husband who goes out and labors all day. They are huge and usually include a meat, rice & beans, plantains, vegetable and some sort of salad.

Finally, I am sure you are curious of my footwear. My usual footwear is extremely attractive....

and for school, when I need to dress up, I wear these fake Crocs

This is a view right by my house on the way to work (ocean in back)

I'm sure you are curious about my teaching which I'll write about later. Gotta go.

My new life in Costa Rica remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Costa Rican Residency

2007-05-29T22:28:36Z

So I read this great document in a real estate magazine about how to obtain Costa Rican residency. After detailing the immigration law (you may retire if you have pension money, $200K to invest, or if you marry a Costa Rican or have a Costa Rican baby...) they then go on to describe how one might obtain a work permit. I found this particularly amusing so thought I´d share it with you. Highlighted in bold are some of my favorite parts.

¨Work Permits. If you are neither retired nor have big savings, but still want to stay in Costa Rica, you will have to work. Without work there is no money and without money no bread to eat - but you also have to eat, even in paradise.

A typical case is that someone visits Costa Rica as a tourist for some weeks, falls in love with the country and wants to stay and work here. If this happens to you, I recommend you resist and always go along with the law, since the government takes it seriously. And even if you do find a job, your income would be only $300 a month, which is not enough. It is better to stay as a tourist, enjoy the country for a while, and return to your home country if you do not meet the residency requirements.

There are not many people without a job in Costa Rica. Even in periouds of less economical growth, Costa Ricans work hard for little money. Neither the government nor the people like foreigners taking jobs away.

Under some circumstances you can get a work permit
as a scientist, as a trainer for sports team, as artist (or showmaster) as priest, if you marry a Costa Rican, as a student , as a member of a multinational company, as a doctor or nurse, as bilingual professor.

It is important to know, that the old trick to leave to Panama for 3 days and come back in order to get another 90 days legal stay is not as easy as it used to be. Costa Rica does not like this behaviour and you may be deported.¨

Costa Rican Residency remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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How do I teach school?

2007-05-29T22:06:16Z

So today was supposed to be my first day as a teaching assistant for the English class in Samara´s elementary school. I arrived at the school and the teacher never showed up. Apparently she is on bedrest, but by the way people are talking about it it sounds like she is possibly playing hooky. Starting tomorrow I am going to be the head teacher in English classes for grades 1-6 until she returns...
The school asked for lesson plans which I have been working on today (when I wasn´t at the beach, of course!!). The plans consist of games that I have invented as well as ¨head shoulders knees and toes¨ and singing the ABCs. My lesson plans are hand written on scraps of paper and in English, so I´m not sure what they are going to do with them.
If anyone has any ideas about how to teach school, send them my way!
Other interesting news in the jungle is that my friend Beth came to visit for 5 days. We saw some waterfalls, beaches and had monkeys throw mangos at our cabin all night long.

How do I teach school? remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Turtle Stalking

2007-05-22T23:52:25Z

I´ve just gotten back from the middle of nowhere and landed in another middle of nowhere (only this middle of nowhere has lots of yuppy trustafarians wearing Bob Marley tshirts)
My first middle of nowhere was Tortugero, where I toured some jungles via canoe and stalked turtles. Turtle stalking involves going on guided walks on the beach in the pitch black from 10 PM to midnight looking for giant leatherback turtles laying their eggs. Unfortunately I did not see a single turtle in 3 nights, as the season doesn´t really start up until June. These turtles can be up to 2 meters long (US conversion: 6 foot 4, like the size of Erik) and they come to shore every few years to lay 100 eggs. Apparently it is the most amazing thing ever to see one of these giant beasts ascend from the ocean.
I was lucky enough to at least see tracks. As we were walking single file in complete darkness, I figured there would be no way we could see turtle tracks. But these turtles are so enormous they basically create gorges when they walk. Pretty amazing.
I also saw a Cayman crocodile in the jungle - my guide and I were in a canoe about 2 feet away. Photo to follow!
So now I am in Montezuma hippy land where my friend Beth will be joining me for 5 days. I´m off to go look at some hippie clothes boutiques now, as what genius decided to have all of her clothes laundered while the clothes she is currently wearing are soaking wet from the torrential downpour??

Quiz question of the day:
When checking in for the plane from Tortugero to San Jose, the following things were put on a scale:
a) my luggage
b) me
c) all of the above

Maybe this is a common occurance on little planes but it kind of freaked me out.

Turtle Stalking remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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A cougar?

2007-05-19T18:23:02Z

Don't get excited. I didn't actually see a cougar. But I am learning that I have the potential to become one. Seems the 18 year old Costa Rican boys have quite a thing for me.
It started on my kayak tour yesterday, when I noticed that my 18 yr old guide was quite flirtatious and trying to impress me with his kayak skills. We shared an inflatable kayak on the 3.5 hour tour (note: the adventurous Alaskans* took real kayaks that can tip over, which I was not about to do in alligator infested waters)

note: my Alaskan friends are an ex Army couple who went to Iraq and are currently living in dry huts with no running water in Alaska. Obviously a bit more hard core than NYC girl.)

Anyhow, 18 yr old guide was visibly disappointed to hear I was 30, he was sure I was only 22 which I guess is within his age range. Next day after tour I saw him and he told me he would really miss me (?????).
Then on bus ride yesterday there were a bunch of school kids in uniform sitting in back of bus as seniors tend to do worldwide because back of the bus equals cool. One confident boy was encouraged by his friends to come talk to the random gringo (me) and find out if I had a boyfriend. While this was happening his friends shouted that my new amigo "Le gusta chicos! He is a gay!" . After which my amigo told me I was bonita, though I think he was just trying to prove his heterosexuality.
Anyhow, where am I you ask? I decided to go off the beaten track a bit as I was in a lot of touristy places where only english was spoken. So I found a random town and got to speak plenty of Spanish. (aside from Alaskans, and Utah tour group in rainforest with lots of hippies, including one woman who had the longest armpit hair I have ever seen, male or female) We went to a chocolate farm and learned to make chocolate which was really fun (note that CR is not famous for chocolate)
Yesterday was tedious as I had to take FOUR buses and a boat to get to Tortugero... but fabulous as I spoke Spanish all day.
Bus rides:
1< La Virgen to Sarapaqui- where I was hit on by high schooler in uniform
2< Sarapaqui to Guapiles , made an amigo who was illegal immigrant from Nicaraugua
3< Guapiles to Cairias . Don't remember much about this ride, was delirious with heat and sweat.
4< Cairais to Pavona. more like a freight truck than bus, local farmers kept getting on with fruit bags and unloading at different stops. I spoke with some, one gave me a guava and told me about the man in front of the bus whose 3 year old son was eaten by a gator 10 days ago. (note: I have since heard that they are on a gator witch hunt here, killing every gator trying to find little boy's body. very sad) Also I made friends with an old man who resembled Junior from the Sopranos but I couldn't understand a word he said so just smiled and nodded.
As if 4 bus rides wasn't enough, we were dropped off in field, climbed a fence and walked to river. Got on a boat to ride through canals to get to Tortugero Island. The ride was the coolest ever, it felt so jungle like that it couldn't be real, almost like I was on a ride at Diesney world. Only locals on boat. We dropped some people off at cabins on river and then I got off on the island. it is so cool here, just a tiny village! I couldn't explore much because it was getting dark and I am responsible and safe (note to Mom and Dad) but I had dinner at a great Caribbean restaurant below my hostel.
Today I have made a German friend and we are going on a walk. He just told me that there is a boa outside eating an iguana but I am not going to go look at it.
There was a 2 inch bug crawling on me in my sleep last night.

A cougar? remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Saddle sore

2007-05-15T15:22:41Z

Riding from Santa Elena to Monteverde

Also went to see a live volcano (fiery lava rocks spewing over side) and the hot sulfer springs last night which are apparently restorative. (I feel Zen-like today)

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Vista de Serpiente!!!!!!!!

2007-05-15T15:18:34Z

The headline means ¨the viewing of the snake¨or ¨the sight of the snake¨or some other awkward Spanish phrase that I likely don´t have quite right. Yes, I had my first sighting. It was lying in the path during my tour of a rainforest.
Fortunately, the snake was miniature ... like maybe circumference of a half an inch and length of about a foot. I was surprised to find that I did not have a panic attack but remained calm and collected. Perhaps because it just looked like a giant worm.
I did a canopy zipline tour of the jungle today which was very fun, and included a 3 story free fall (I screamed very loud)

Vista de Serpiente!!!!!!!! remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Surfing

2007-05-13T03:03:46Z

Guess who got up on a surfboard multiple times the other day? (note: the waves were miniature) (note: much of the hard work paddling out was done by instructor Diego, who kept trying to convince me to come to Ladies Night at the local bar to "practice my Spanish")
Now I am in the depths of a rainforest where it has been pounding rain on the tin roof all evening. I´m getting into backpacker mentality and cooking in the hostel to save like $1 a meal. My days of $13 cocktails in trendy NYC bars seem like forever ago...

Surfing remains copyright of the author Ali212, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Real life sound machine

2007-05-10T04:21:17Z

You know how I'm obsessed with white noise & sound machines? Well, last night I fell asleep to a real pounding rainforest rain that sounded exactly like my sound machine (complete with tropical birds chirping in the background). So I felt like I was at home in NYC. Tonight the hostel kids are being loud & making me feel like an old 30 year old. I'm off to bed shortly as I had a BIG day in the jungle with some random friends I made from the US & AU. Oh. side note. As I type there is a lizard on the wall just one foot away. So, in the jungle we saw monkeys and sloths, and bushwacked our way through the jungle & forded two streams to see a waterfall (imagine me, bushwhacking! OK, slight exagerration)
No snake sightings yet!

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Snake phobia

2007-04-25T17:39:06Z

Costa Rica, a country merely the size of West Virginia, contains 8% of the world's snakes. I will soon be there for 6 weeks and have a massive snake phobia. I currently live in NYC where the chance of encountering a snake is fairly slim. (exception: my friend's sister in the Upper West Side found a black snake in her bathtub; apparently a neighbor's escaped pet)
CR is home to some of the world's deadliest poisonous snakes: Bushmasters, boa constrictors, coral snakes, fer-de-lances. I am convinced I will be one of the 800 people who gets bitten yearly in CR, so have studied up on what to do in case of a bite. Luckily, only 10 die and I think my odds are better than that

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